240114 Nadi

We woke about 4:00; didn’t get back to sleep so got up.

We had Weetbix and muesli for breakfast with the provided UHT milk. We had initially booked for only one night but later made another booking. We packed up, rearranging things so that we had what we might need in one backpack, food in the other, and our two suitcases.

Google said it would take 36 minutes to walk to the church (2.6km). We were ready to go by about 7:45. We checked out, putting our bags into storage. It was 28 degrees and only got hotter. My phone says if is 31 degrees now, at 2:40.

The church was on the Nadi Back Road. Some of the way there were no footpaths and again it reminded me of Asia. Fiji is a third world country. There were crops planted in the fields but not many signs of life. We did pass people setting up a watermelon stall.

The people we met were very friendly and willing to help. We mentioned to two people that we were going to the Living Way Church.

Neither, including a taxi driver, knew it. There are many taxis and they often toot and look enquiringly or call out ‘bula’ or stop offering us a lift.

We passed several churches and saw a number more in the rest of the day.

We got there about 30 minutes early but went in. People greeted us very warmly and sat us where the fans were operating, adjusting them to give us more cool air. They were also finding it very hot and were visible surprised that we had walked. The pastor even mentioned it in the service and later said he was honoured that we had walked. He said that in the old days they walked but now, with cars, they have got lazy. I think they thought too that it was too hot to walk.

One couple had retired from jobs in Suva and wanted to escape the hustle and bustle so are now living half way between Nadi and Lautoka, and 5 minutes inland. They come to this church because it is multicultural (Indo-Fijians, Fijians, Americans, South Africans etc.) and because they are related to the pastor!

Another woman was a Canadian Indian and an evangelist here. They hold crusades in churches. Indigenous Fijians will come to a church but Hindu Indians will not so they also go door-to-door. She said that many Fijians are nominally Christian. Hindus will agree with what you say and are happy to add Jesus to their many gods but few are willing to leave Hinduism. Health problems are a key opportunity. People want to be well and she is willing to pray for them but, even if they are healed, many Indians will simply go back to their Hindu gods. She sometimes asks if they would be willing to leave their gods to follow Jesus if He heals them. Generally, they are not.

It was noticeable that all of the men were in long trousers, or "skirts" and the women all in long dresses. We were both in knee-length shorts.

The service was very good. The music was great with some lovely harmonies. Many of the songs we knew; others were easy to sing.

The preaching was very good. Based on Ps 37:1-4, the pastor talked about delighting in God, saying that meant 1. A personal relationship with God that goes beyond just the devotions we feel obliged to give, 2. doing God’s will and 3. gratitude.

At one point he commented on Ex 15. When a slaves term had come to an end, the master was to supply him with all that he needed. However, if the slave did not want to leave, the master would pierce his ear to the door. The pastor said that we have been set free and received everything we need but we chose to serve the master rather than be free, in which case, we dedicate everything to Him. He pierces our hearts and makes us His.

This church has close links with Tak Bhana and Church Unlimited in Auckland.

Afterwards we spoke to a number of people. They were all very friendly. There were multiple Bulas. When we said that we had thought to go into the Nadi town centre, he said he would find someone going that way to give us a lift. We had to wait quite a while but eventually bundled into a van with a number of other people. They, very kindly, dropped us at the far end of Nadi so that we could walk back before getting a bus.

By this time of the day it certainly was very hot and muggy. The locals were complaining!

We were dropped close to the Sri Sava Subramaniya Hindi Temple which features a lot in publicity about Nadi. We had asked some people at the church what we should do in Nadi. They said it was Sunday so a lot of the shops would be closed but there would be some outside market stalls. When we asked if the temple was worth a visit they were very unenthusiastic – presumably because of the spiritual aspects.

We went to the gate but visitors had to check in. Plus there were a number of people around making offerings, or praying, at shrines. We decided not to and simply took some photos. We couldn’t have gone in anyway. A large sign said that people could not enter wearing long shorts.

We walked back up the main street. A lot of the shops were shut. Many looked run down. Some were newer and there were one or two modern malls.

 

Chris had an experience she didn’t like. One man walking the same was as we were, started talking, asking us where we were from etc.. He said that most of the shops were shut but a cultural centre was open. It was just up the street. I said we would take our time and look when we got there but he said, ‘No, no, it is just here’. He said it was goods from his village. He took us in and introduced us to others. He then said it is about their culture and they like to greet people in their cultural way. He handed us over to another man who invited us to sit on a woven mat and it was apparent that we were about to have our first kava ceremony! This gentleman was very gracious and explained it all. He asked if it was our first. I said we needed his help to understand the expectations. He said there it was free. In other places they would expect $5 or $10.

He said he knew Chris was the boss but for the sake of this ceremony I would be the boss but I would have to give that role back afterwards. He called me Mr Boss and Chris Mrs Boss. There was a short chant at the beginning. When we were handed the little bowl of kava, we were to clap once before taking it and drinking, then three times afterwards. Later, were learnt the one clap means bula and the three claps mean vinaka vaka-levu (thank you very much). We both had two bowls of kava before a final chant. Really there was nothing to it. It tasted like not much but gave a slight tingle in the mouth. He said it contains no drugs or alcohol; it is all natural.

He then stated telling us about to good in the shop and how they are made by people in the village and the money goes back to them. Then another woman sat with us, went through all the greeting pleasantries, asking where we were from etc. and continued the speel about the good and the money raised going back to the families. We had thought they came from one particular village but she said they were from all over Fiji. She showed us various products and told us of their virtues. “Don’t worry about the price. We will give you a discount”. Chris whispered that we would have to buy something now. I said we didn’t have to but if she felt that way to find something she liked. There was a lot of carved and woven items plus jewellery, particularly made of Fiji pearls. The prices seemed very high. A small bowl with paua shell inlaid inside and the outside made of coconut kernels cost $195. Chris found nothing she liked or was willing to pay for. I said to the woman that it was our first day and we didn’t want to have to carry things or buy before we had had time to know what we wanted. She continued to try to persuade us. They consider the first customer of the day to be a lucky customer and were willing to offer a discount. That bowl would be $150. We said no. She spoke in Fijian to the men present so we don’t know what that was about but we made our way to the door and left.

Chris thought it was a terrible experience!

We looked for something to eat and found a modern, clean and cool place (Zigzag Café) that sold pizzas etc. I had a bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich ($17.50); Chris had a grilled chicken salad ($10.50) and we both had smoothies ($10.50 each). It was very nice.

 

We then walked the rest of the street and back to a bus stop. We had been told it would cost $1.50. Lots of taxis offered us rides. We waited for a while then asked a woman standing there. She said ‘Oh any bus or van going to Lautoka’. She offered to stop one for us.

She was from Suva and had been here only one month. She was a medical lab technician but said there are few opportunities in Fiji. She is now working at the Sofitel in Denarau, in a café called Bazaar where there is a buffet every night.

She went up to a van that had stopped, spoke to the driver in Fijian and ushered us in. Besides taxis, there are two forms of transport: buses and vans which are quite cheap. We were told this would cost $1.50. We returned to the Gateway Hotel via the main Nadi Road. There were a lot more shops and businesses than on the back road but it still had a third world feel to it. The driver said he drives between Nadi and Lautoka perhaps 10 times each day. I handed over $5.00 and got $1.00 change.

On our return we settled into our new room. There is a refurbishment programme happening. This room has been refurbished; the previous one had not.

Chris had a long sleep. I went for a swim then wrote this. It certainly has been very hot. The woman from Suva said it is much cooler there.

Later...

We spent some time booking accommodation in Sigatoka. We dithered over using bookings.com which had two different prices and booking with the venue directly, which was dearer again.

We then went for dinner at the hotel restaurant which was very pleasant. We shared a garden salad and a bula burger, then shared a fresh fruit platter, as well a having a drink each.

About 5:00 p.m. it had started raining along with thunder. The rain got heavier and heavier. We were sitting beside a swimming pool and the surface was a mass of splashed and ripples. And then, at maybe 7:00 p.m. it stopped.

Walking back to our room we noticed frog less than a metre from us and not acting scared.